ORGANZINE SILK

These are silk yarns mainly used for warps. Care is taken not to give too much twist, since the twisting reduces the lustre. Organzine is produced by slightly twisting together several filaments, and then twisting two or more such singles together to form the required yarn. The first is Z twist, the doubling is S twist. The turns vary from 9 up to 30 per inch according to the fabrics the yarn is to be used for. Satins require a fairly soft twist of 10 to 11 turns, yarn for velvet about 15 to 20, and grenadines, voiles, etc., up to 30. Organzine was first produced in Italy and not till 1718 did English silk spinners make a silk strong enough for warp (see silk yarns)

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

See Denier. Spun silk counts are based on the 840 yards hank, as in cotton, but in folded yarns the finished count is used, not the single count, with the number of component threads placed after the actual count resulting from the doubling. Thus 40/2 has 40 hanks of 840 yards in i-lb. and is composed of two threads of 80's single. Dram System - The weight of 1,000 yards in drams gives the counts, thus if 1,000 yards weighs 6 drams it is known as " 6-dram silk." This is known as the Manchester method of thrown silk counting. Another system is the number of yards per ounce, thus 25,000 organzine or tram yarn means 25,000 yards per ounce, and is that used in Yorkshire. The expression 12/14 as applied to silk yarn counts means that the yarn is not lighter than 12 denier, nor heavier than 14 denier, the average being 13

Loosely twisted silk yarn consisting of two or more threads, used for weft. The name is obtained from the French word "trame" which means "weft". It is a thrown silk, and has much less twist than organzine, is softer, more bulky, with more lustre. There are about 2 to 5 turns per inch, for with less twist there is more lustre, and weft is not required to be as strong as organzine warp.

The French term for raw silk yarns run together without twist. It is reeled from cocoons and used either as it is or when converted into tram or organzine by throwing. ———————— A term applied to the filaments produced by silkworms in the form of cocoons. The term also applies to the threads produced by reeling the filaments from a number of cocoons together. Each filament (bave) consists of two fibres (brins) joined together by gum and the length varies from about 500 to over 1,200 yards. Various counts ranging from 8/10 denier to 20/22 denier are reeled, 13/15 denier is the most usual and this is produced by reeling from five cocoons. It has no twist. There are nine different qualities of Bombyx Mori silk in commerce, whether from Japan, China, Italy or India. They are: - Bons Cocoons, Cocoons Pointus, Cocoons Foibles, Cocoons Doubles, Cocoons Satines Goufflons. Cocoons Ouverts. Cocoons Chiques, Cocoons Taches, Dragles.

The French term for raw silk yarns run together without twist. It is reeled from cocoons and used either as it is or when converted into tram or organzine by throwing.

Raw silk that has been doubled and twisted into yarns of various sizes in preparation for the loom. The principal classes of thrown silk are tram, organzine and singles.

Silk yarn harder twisted than tram but not so hard as organzine.

A special thread used for gauze manufacture. It is a three-fold organzine yam and made by doubling two threads together and then doubling this with a third.

Same as Organzine.

A dress cloth made from organzine silk warp and two wefts, one being silk and the other worsted. The cloth is woven in jacquard looms with the warp making a repp ground by using both wefts; figure is formed by the warp weaving with the silk weft only with the worsted weft floating at the back. One quality has 120 ends and 88 picks per inch of 2/60's black botany weft, and a silk weft, woven pick-and-pick. Many qualities are now made.

(Taffetas), French-Silk fabric known in England as early as the 14th century and probably manufactured in Brittany, where it was called Taftas. It was used for the lining of rich mantles. It was much used in the 16th century for various articles of dress. The word taffeta is now used to describe various cloths in the plain weave. One is closely woven all-silk fabric in which the number of ends per inch is about the same as the picks, the warp and weft are of the same count. Silk taffeta as made in France is plain weave with organzine silk warp and tram weft, 180 to 200 ends and 72 to 100 picks per inch, widths 27-in., 36-in. and 40-in. There is a fair weight of loading on these cloths. When made with weft differing in colour from the warp the cloth is known as " Taffetas Glace." Bradford produces a wool taffeta much used for better-class shirts. A large trade is done in cotton taffeta 36-in. to 40-in. wide, 60 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/20's weft. This cloth is both bleached and dyed. A lower cotton taffeta is made with 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 42's warp, 28's weft, dyed in all colours.

(Taffetas), French-Silk fabric known in England as early as the 14th century and probably manufactured in Brittany, where it was called Taftas. It was used for the lining of rich mantles. It was much used in the 16th century for various articles of dress. The word taffeta is now used to describe various cloths in the plain weave. One is closely woven all-silk fabric in which the number of ends per inch is about the same as the picks, the warp and weft are of the same count. Silk taffeta as made in France is plain weave with organzine silk warp and tram weft, 180 to 200 ends and 72 to 100 picks per inch, widths 27-in., 36-in. and 40-in. There is a fair weight of loading on these cloths. When made with weft differing in colour from the warp the cloth is known as " Taffetas Glace." Bradford produces a wool taffeta much used for better-class shirts. A large trade is done in cotton taffeta 36-in. to 40-in. wide, 60 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/20's weft. This cloth is both bleached and dyed. A lower cotton taffeta is made with 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 42's warp, 28's weft, dyed in all colours.

A well-woven plain weave silk fabric, made from good organzine silk. Both warp and weft are doubled yams with more threads per inch in the warp than weft.

A dress fabric woven with organzine silk warp and cotton weft, forming ribs. Mostly dyed in light colours.

The French term for gauze, and there are many fabrics made in France to which this name is given. The most common are as follows: - Gaze a Bluter - Made in cotton or silk and used for sifting purposes. It is a plain gauze. Gaze Brilliantine - A high-class dress leno cloth made from all silk yams. Gaze an Fuseau - See Grille. Gaze Barege - Very light dress goods, silk warp, wool weft, or of all wool, often printed. Gaze Ceres - A fabric for making women's hats, silk warp and split straw weft. Leno weave. Seldom used today. Gaze Cristal - Very light French dress goods, silk warp, having small bright and dull spots alternating on the face. Gaze Damassee - A gauze fabric of silk warp and weft in which the design is produced with two wefts, either different colours or different material. Gaze Faconnee - A French gauze with brocade design woven one ground thread and one figuring thread alternately. Gaze Paconnee Broche - French gauze fabric, plain gauze, on which is hand embroidered various designs. Gaze Faconnee Raye - French gauze with warp stripes. Gaze de Fil - A French-made gauze, flax yarns, with a light starch finish, usually striped. Gaze d'ltalie - A French gauze, made of silk yams. Gaze de Paris - A French light-weight, silk dress fabric, made of organzine warp and trame weft. Gaze de Voilette - A French production made from all-silk yams in fine reeds and closely picked. A pure, very fine and transparent gauze. Gaze Filoche - A French all-silk leno fabric. Gaze Fond Filoche - An all-silk French gauze, organzine warp, grege weft, with bars across the weft formed by groups of picks. Gaze Lisse - A leno cloth, very light weight, made in France from undyed silk yams. Gaze Marabout - A very light, silk French gauze. Also a pile fabric made with very short plush stripes, alternating in three colours, over a thin gauze ground. Gaze Milanaise - A French light-weight dress fabric with equal number of ends and picks per inch. Made of " Milanaise " yarn. Gaze Ondee - A French very light dress cloth or trimming fabric made of organzine warp and weft on " ondee " silk. Gaze Perron - A French leno fabric, all silk, used for bordering on dresses. Gaze Platree - A striped French gauze, made of yellow silk and given a light starch finish. Gaze Tour Anglais - The French term for leno.

An all-silk twill, used for coat linings. Made from organzine, warp and tram weft, in several qualities. It is a silk taffeta.

A brocaded fabric in which the figure is developed in coloured schappe silk yarns. The warp is organzine and the ground weft cotton or rayon. Several colours of weft are used. Woven on check looms. Used for furnishings. A general term for many wool, silk and cotton fabrics, usually in brocade effects.